MUMBAI: The 100 Foot Journey, the new film directed by Lasse Hallstrom, opens with a scene set in a Mumbai fish market. A mother and son are pushing and shoving through a crowd of people whose attention, it becomes clear, is focused on one seller with a basket of something much in demand. The camera focuses on a heap of dark, prickly balls — sea-urchins, and apparently so greatly prized that they are causing this frenzy among the buyers.
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The young boy is transfixed by the delicious flavour he detects inside and reaches out to them – and the seller is so impressed he lets the boy’s mother have the basket. The scene is a neat way to establish the boy’s exceptional understanding of food which will lead him to becoming a famous chef — the journey of the film.
There is only one problem with it — no one seems to eat sea urchins in India. They are found along our coasts. BF Chhapgar, the noted marine biologist who used to run Mumbai’s Taraporevala Aquarium and has written extensively on India’s marine life, recalls being able to collect them in shore off Worli when he was young (he is now 83), but cannot remember any case where anyone ate them. “Indians are very conservative when it comes to seafood,” he says. Chhapgar points out that most people here only eat a few ‘safe’ kinds of fish, like pomfret and surmai, and persuading them to try something different can be hard. When he was running the aquarium he started a restaurant alongside that served simple fish dishes and he specifically chose lesser known, but delicious fish.
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“People ate in as fish and chips and loved it, but they wouldn’t have bought it in the market if they knew what it was,” he says. (He adds regretfully that after he left the aquarium, the restaurant got handed over to new management who promptly put the standard fish on the menu).
If fish is a problem, shellfish is even more so. The communities that eat them are often marginalised and poorer ones, because richer people are too squeamish or look down on these items – luxuries abroad – as only fit for those who can’t afford the standard fish. The Dalit writer Urmila Pawar, in her autobiography Aaydan, writes of women scouring the seaside for such creatures: “once on shore, they would spread the oyster shells on it, cover these with dry leaves and twigs and bake the oysters.” It is notable that Pawar says the oysters were cooked. The Western tradition of eating seafood raw is not followed here. Even today, when farmed oysters from Kerala are available and served raw, it is seen as a distinctly. Western way to eat them (and many refuse). Sea urchins are savoured in the Mediterranean, China and Japan for their intense tasting interiors (actually their sex organs) which are eaten raw.